Table of Contents

Introduction
Guide to costs
Acknowledgments
Close-by
Fast and Close
 Downtown LA

Within Six Blocks of the Hotel
Downtown LA Neighborhoods
 Bunker Hill and North/MOCA/Music Center
 Little Tokyo/Artists's District
Olvera Street/Union Station
 Chinatown

Close to Subway Stations
 Eastside - Pasadena
 MidTown LA - Echo Park/Westlake/Rampart
 Korea Town & Vicinity
 Westside

La Brea
 Little Ethiopia
 Beverly Blvd./Third Street between Fairfax & Robertson
 West LA

Santa Monica

Wilshire and North
 Third Street Promenade & Adjacent
 Nearwest LA/Santa Monica Airport
 Ocean Park/Main Street

By the Sea, By the Beautiful Sea
In Categories All Their Own.
Fast, Good and Everywhere.
Map

FINE (AND SOME FUN) DINING IN LA

There are many reasons to love LA, but its choice of excellent restaurants has to rank among the city's great pleasures. While the best way to sample the area's cuisine is to have the time, energy, and personal means of transportation to sample food in a variety of LA area communities, fortunately there are enough places in the vicinity of the Wilshire Grand Hotel to keep you busy and well-fed. Most of the restaurants listed here are within walking distance, a short cab ride away, close to the DASH route, near metro stations, or located near a convention venue and/or tour site. Although there is not a separate section devoted to vegetarian cuisine, many restaurants offer vegetarian entrees-particularly Californian, Italian, Mediterranean, and Ethiopian-and in many instances below such entrees are highlighted. The true foodies among us will want to know (if they do not already) which L.A. restaurants are rated the best by the pros. Always somewhat debatable, there are three that continue to rank in the top three-and have for several years. They are at the top of every restaurant guide and we are simply listing them here with their contact information. Be assured, if you have the $$$$, you will have as exquisite a meal at any of these establishments as you have had anywhere in the world. Reservations are required as far in advance as possible.

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A GUIDE TO COSTS

Costs reflect the approximate price per person for dinner, including tax and one drink. Lunch usually costs about 25% less than dinner.

$ under $15

$$ $16-$30

$$$ $31-$50

$$$$ over $50

At almost every place listed below, reservations for dinner are recommended.

To supplement these listings, you might wish to look at the following websites:

Bon Apetit!

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The task of compiling this listing of some of the fun, the good, and the great places to eat in LA and its surrounding areas was facilitated by the wonderful response of ARLIS members to our solicitation on ARLIS-L for their suggestions of favorite spots to dine in LA. The professional staff at LACMA-primarily the curators and conservators-made many wonderful suggestions as well. Sincere thanks to all those who contributed, thereby making the entries in the listing much more personal than would have been possible without the cooperative effort. Although I did not tally the number of times that a given restaurant was nominated, a casual recollection makes CIUDAD, the fairly new Downtown location of Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, the winner many times over. So it must be really good!

The local conference planning committee gratefully acknowledges the support of the University of Southern California in underwriting the copying of the guide.

Compiled by Susan Trauger, Librarian, Rifkind Study Center, Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

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CLOSE BY

Inside the Wilshire Grand Hotel. Menus available online at http://www.thewilshiregrand.com/flash/menus.html

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FAST AND CLOSE

There are two shopping plazas very close to the Wilshire Grand Hotel:

7+FIG-735 S. Figueroa St. is one short block south of the main entrance of the hotel-and directly across the street from the hotel's 7th Street exit. In addition to retail and service outlets there's fast food:

Macy's Plaza-7th and Flower Sts. (213-624-2891) is two blocks east of the hotel. In addition to its retail and service outlets there is a food court:

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DOWNTOWN LA

WITHIN SIX BLOCKS OF THE HOTEL

(** = Inside the Wilshire Grand Hotel)

 
 
Bernard's Bistro-506 S. Grand Ave. (5th St.) (213) 612-1580. $$$$
Contemporary Continentasl. For many years a classic "dress-up" restaurant inside the Biltmore, a National Historic Landmark hotel, Bernard's now has a different chef but is still a standby for impeccable service and a menu that "is as extensive as it is expensive." Take time to wander about the fabulous Beaux Arts Biltmore (Schultze & Weaver, 1923); this was a film location for "The Titanic" and continues to be a major filming location and event site. Although the main entrance is now on Grand, the original Italian Renaissance main lobby faces Pershing Square (on the west side of Olive) and "still lives as a happy hour and high tea room."
 
Café Pinot-700 W. Fifth St. (Flower St.) (213) 239-6500. $$$
Cal-French Bistro. Next to the LA Central Public Library with an unequaled view of the Downtown skyline-get a table on the heated patio. Great food-with a spa menu too. The salad trio is always good and inventive. Serving lunch and dinner daily. Also has a take-out window open all day. Visit the magnificent library-wander down LA's answer to the Spanish steps. You can also call ahead, get take out and munch on the steps. Reservations essential.
 
Cardini**--930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel, Hotel Registration/Lobby Level) (213) 896-3822.
Italian. Homemade pastas, fresh seafood salads, classic Italian veal and chicken dishes. Wine list. Smoking is available in the outdoor seating area.
 
Checkers-535 S. Grand Ave. (bet. 5th and 6th Sts.) (213) 624-0000. $$$
Cal/Continental. Beautiful food with beautiful service. Serene. Sophisticated. Go there to celebrate something nice. Reservations. In a lovely small hotel across from the Biltmore Hotel-(the latter regally restored recently and a must-see!)
 
Ciao Trattoria-815 W. Seventh St. (bet. Figueroa & Flower Sts.) (213) 624-2244. $$
Italian (N & S). Located in the beautiful historic Fine Arts Building-it's a "crowded hot spot for lunch" and draws a large pre-theater audience as well. Try the delicious garlic rolls, the great calamari fritto, the veal picatta, and the fabulous pastas.
 
Cicada-617 S. Olive St. (bet. 6th & 7th Sts.) (213) 488-9488. $$$
Italian-Rated by LA Downtown News as "Best Restaurant" and "Best Romantic Dinner," serves northern Italian cuisine in the stunning Art Deco Oviatt Building. Highly recommended: the ravioli of smoked duck and the marinated tuna with mint and Italian white beans.
 
City Coffee Bar**--930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel, Hotel Registration/Lobby Level, adjacent to City Grill)
Serving freshly baked pastries as well as Starbuck's coffee and tea.
 
City Grill**--930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel, Hotel Registration/Lobby Level) (213) 627-4289 $$
American. Broad selection of well-prepared food in a comfortable atmosphere. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A buffet is available for lunch along with regular table service.
 
Ciudad-445 S. Figueroa St. (5th St.) (213) 486-5171. $$$
California/Caribbean fusion cooking. Great combinations of exotic ingredients-especially recommended: Bolivian Sweet Corn Tamales, Peruvian Ceviche, Tamarind Glazed Salmon, and the Très Leches dessert "is to DIE for". For vegetarian preferences, try the Latin Vegetable Fiesta, a sampling of seasonal delicacies including spinach with pepitas, plantain fritters, black beans, arroz con gondules, and grilled vegetables. There's a good happy hour-but need to get there early-well known for its exotic drinks. The owners, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, do show up and make the rounds of the tables making sure everyone is happy. "Sleek", "very yellow", "60s"-mod décor. Closed weekends at lunch. Reservations mandatory.
 
Engine Co. No. 28-644 S. Figueroa St. (bet. 7th St. & Wilshire Blvd. (213) 624-6996. $$
American Grill. A "lunch hangout" in a "neat old" firehouse amid wood-paneled surroundings. Specializes in "classic meat 'n' taters"-the signature dish is meatloaf! But also serves salads, sandwiches and a "spunky" vegetarian chili made with white beans and green chilies, as well as a vegetarian risotto. Breakfast and lunch: Mon-Fri; Dinner: daily. Reservations recommended. Then visit the 7th St. Market to shop, and view the artwork in the subway station below.
 
Kyoto-930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel) (213) 896-3812. $$
Sushi/Tempura. A sleek contemporary sushi bar that's right next to a terrific tempura bar, where the chef will choose a menu for you-dipping each vegetable or piece of seafood into one of several batters. The frying is impeccable, the batter like lace. Try the kara age (fritter) of asparagus and tiny bay scallops. Check the sake list, too. Closed weekends. Mon-Fri; closes at 9 pm.
 
McCormick & Schmick's-Library Tower, 633 W. 5th St. (at Flower St.) (213) 629-1929. [Also in Beverly Hills, El Segundo, and Pasadena]. $ (Happy hour); $$
Seafood/Chop House. The Downtown locale is conveniently located at the top of the Bunker Hill steps, halfway between the Central Library and the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA). Offers just about every fish you'd ever want and cooked any way you'd like it. Relaxing, pleasant, clubby atmosphere-noisy during the "value-packed happy hour". Oysters on the half shell are served; the Crab Louie is good and so are the simpler grilled fish dishes-but it's the crab cakes they're famous for. Save room for the Chocolate Bread Pudding. Opens at 4:30 pm on weekends.
 
 
Original Pantry Café-877 S. Figueroa St. (at 9th St.) (213) 972-9279. $
American Diner/Steak House. Since 1924 (now owned by LA mayor Richard Riordan)-with waiters who've been there forever. Expect to wait at peak times-just get in line and meet other nice people in LA. Recommended: grilled steaks and chops, or the steak and eggs for breakfast. Ask for the Pantry brochure at the checkout "cage"-filled with interesting miscellaneous information about the restaurant. "Always open-never closed."
 
 
Pacific Dining Car-1310 W. Sixth St. (bet. Alvarado & Figueroa Sts.) (213) 483-6000. [Also in Santa Monica at 2700 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 453-4000]. $$$$
American-style Grill. Serves "top-notch old-boy food" at both of these steakhouses, with the original 1921 Downtown branch, open 24 hrs, in an old-style railroad car. The Downtown locale is also a favorite for breakfast.
 
Point Moorea**--930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel, Lower Lobby Level) (213) 833-5100 $-$$
South Pacific theme. Includes a Grand Bar, a Martini Bar, and the Harem Room for private parties. Variety of cocktails and "island appetizers."
 
Seoul Jung**-930 Wilshire Blvd. (in the Wilshire Grand Hotel) (213) 688-7880. $$
Korean Barbecue. Set in these handsome surroundings you can ask your waiter to help you grill kalbi (short ribs) and any number of various meats and/or seafood. You also can stop in for such soulful Korean dishes as bi bim bap, a meal-in-a-bowl of rice tipped with raw egg yolk, strips of rib-eye beef, shiitake mushrooms and vegetables in a sizzling stoneware pot. Or order a hot pot of boiling broth, noodles and vegetables.

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DOWNTOWN LA NEIGHBORHOODS

BUNKER HILL and NORTH/MOCA/MUSIC CENTER

Otto's Grill & Beer Bar-135 N. Grand Ave. (1st St.) (213) 972-7322. $$
Contemporary Grill cuisine. A lively and inviting restaurant on the ground floor of the Music Center-its specialties include beef stroganoff, home-style chicken pot pie, and a whopping half-pound cheeseburger. Said to have Downtown's best selection of specialty brews. Lunch and dinner: Tues-Sun. Reservations.
Patinette Café at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)-250 S. Grand Ave. (bet. 2nd & 3rd Sts.) (213) 626-1178. $$
Continental French. Has indoor and outdoor service and features great specials and soups. The salmon sandwich is especially recommended. Mostly lunch-also offers takeout and delivery. Closed Monday. Afterwards, walk up the street to see the building site for the new Disney Concert Hall designed by Frank Gehry.
Tesoro Trattoria-300 S. Grand Ave. (3rd St.) (213) 680-0000 $$
Italian (Northern). Features Tuscan cuisine of grilled fish and meats, such as tuna carpaccio and calamari fritti, together with well-prepared pastas. At California Plaza, it's within walking distance of the Music Center and MOCA. Enjoy the outdoor dining-including Sunday and Monday.
Water Grill-544 S. Grand Ave. (bet. 5th and 6th Sts.) (213) 891-0900. $$$$
California Cuisine. "The one LA restaurant that has an entire menu of compelling seafood dishes." It offers superbly prepared seafood, an oyster bar, and an elegant setting in its art deco dining room. Menu choices include a wonderful white chowder, Dungeness crab cakes, Big-Eye tuna tartare, Maine lobster, an excellent French sea bass, and a bouillabaisse of monkfish. Desserts are as good as the seafood, the wine list is terrific, and the waiters are great (sometimes too solicitous). Lunch weekdays, dinner daily. Reservations essential.

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LITTLE TOKYO/ARTISTS' DISTRICT

410 Boyd St.- 410 Boyd St. (at San Pedro) (213) 617-2491. $
Urban Art Bar and Grill-has art by downtown artists for sale. Menu ranges from spicy New Orleans to Scottish smoked salmon. The burger is the "best in town" especially with gorgonzola cheese on rosemary bread. Has an interior "straight out of Architectural Digest." Lunch: Mon-Fri; Dinner: Tues-Fri. Adjacent to LA's "Toy" District and Little Tokyo.
R-23-923 E. 3rd St. (bet. Alameda St. & Santa Fe Ave.) (213) 687-7178. $$$
Japanese/Sushi. Just past Little Tokyo, i.e., hidden in an alley in Downtown's art district-hard to find so be sure to call for directions. In addition to exquisite sushi and sashimi (served on handsome ceramic platters), you can order cooked dishes such as fried baby crabs or broiled yellowtail collar. It's in an unusual setting for sushi-a brick warehouse space, with old wooden floors and eccentric cardboard chairs designed by Frank Gehry. Open Monday; closed Sundays and Saturdays at lunch.
Hama Sushi-347 E. Second St. (bet. San Pedro St. & Central Ave.) (213) 680-3454. [Also at 213 Windward Ave. (Main St.) in Venice (310) 396-8783]. $$
Sushi only. A very typical place in Little Tokyo serving only Sushi. But it's great and moderately priced. The Venice locale has a "noisy, wild sushi bar" with "cool sushi chefs". Fresher sushi can't be found.
 
Komasa-351 E. Second St. (bet. San Pedro St. & Central Ave.) (213) 680-1792. $$
Sushi. This is our favorite Sushi restaurant in Little Tokyo ... you'll think you have died and gone to Heaven!! The owners are very friendly. Try the spicy tuna hand roll, the albacore, and the California roll with cold sake. (The very helpful Japanese American fellow in the Visitors' Center in Little Tokyo agrees-he said he would eat at Komasa everyday if he could afford to eat out that often. He suggested the shrimp sushi and any of the tempura-said he'd pay for my meal if I didn't really find the meal outstanding!) Closed Monday; open for dinner only.
Oomasa-100 Foster St. (Japanese Village Plaza) (213) 623-9048. $$
Sushi+. In addition to its excellent sushi, reviewers recommend its deep-fried soft-shell crab and soybeans.
Lyon-400 E. Second (just below Little Tokyo) (213) 617-1257. $
French/Japanese. A tiny jewel set in Honda Plaza at the edge of Little Tokyo. Just a few tables plus counter seats. Beautiful food that's exquisitely served. Incredible ginger sauce-delicate soup. All entrees come with soup or salad and vegetable. Go very early or very late for lunch (no reservations). Afterward try Frances Bakery (404 Honda Plaza, 213 680-4899) for the most incredible pastry outside of Paris.
Senor Fish-422 E. First St. (Alameda St.) (213) 799-4774. $
Cafeteria. Cheap, great scene. Get the special of the Day Fish Tacos-extraordinaire! Or try the terrific shrimp burritos with delicious salsas and radishes. Breakfast: 7-11 am; open daily until 9 pm. Great location-across the street from the Japanese American National Museum and a block from the Geffen Contemporary MOCA (the Temporary Contemporary).
Umemura-123 S. Onizuka St. (Weller Court, #303) (213) 620-9023. $
Japanese. Known for their great noodles!

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OLVERA STREET/UNION STATION

La Golondrina Café-W. 17 Olvera St. (213) 628-4339. $
Mexican. The best carnitas in LA can be found at this little cafeteria-style restaurant-it's the one nearest the Plaza, across from the church. It was the first restaurant in the city to serve authentic Mexican food. They feature hand -made tortillas and nopales (cactus salad), green chili and tender pork simmered with cactus, a vegetarian quesadilla filled with steamed vegetables, and their homemade flan (made from scratch). Take a moment to appreciate the gallery-quality art collection on the walls. Most of the pieces come from the Tatewari Gallery in Sedona, Arizona (same owner as the Café). Don't miss the burro right outside the front door where you can have your picture taken. Open daily: breakfast, lunch, dinner. Reservations recommended.
La Luz del Dio-1 W. Olvera St. (next door to 600 N. Main-by the Bank of America) (213) 628-7495. $
Mexican. Known to downtown workers affectionately as "Soft Tacos"-this is where to watch authentic soft tacos being made by hand. Stand in line, but it moves fast. Order the Carnitas or the delicious Mexican beef stew. Get salsa in a paper cup. Grab a table and they'll bring you a tray. Open daily. Cash only.Walk around and shop, it's always a good time. The visitors' center is open Mon-Sat from 10 am-3 pm.
Philippe the Original-1001 N. Alameda St. (near Olvera St., Chinatown, and Union Station) (213) 628-3781. $ Cash only!
Cafeteria. An Institution since 1908-serving beef, lamb, or pork French dip sandwiches. Try the lamb dip sandwich with blue cheese. Great potato and macaroni salads, soups of the day, and breakfast combos. Known as well for their pickled purple eggs, pickled pigs feet, and baked apples (Oct.­June). All served at communal tables or wooden booths-go upstairs to get away from the hubbub. Open daily: 6 am-10 pm. Note: locals call it Felipe's.
Traxx-800 N. Alameda St. (bet. Cesar Chavez Ave. & 101 Frwy.) (213) 625-1999. $$$
New American Menu. An absolutely fabulous restaurant on the main concourse of the restored Union Station. The chef oversees everything-her dishes maintain diverse flavors from a multitude of spices and herbs without any one being overpowered. Try the curried roasted rack of lamb with red current couscous. 1930's art-deco with candlelight-or try the spectacular garden dining area. Lunch: Mon-Fri; Dinner: Mon-Sat; Bar: daily. Reservations. While there don't miss the lobby mural and the moving neon sign with pictures of LA stars-Municipal and Hollywood-riding the train together-Humphrey Bogart meets Mayor Riordan.

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CHINATOWN

ABC Seafood-205 Ord St. (New High St.) (213) 680-2887. $$
Hong Kong-Style Cantonese. This is a fun way to get a great lunch-carts circulate throughout the dining room offering tempting goodies such as, shrimp hidden in thick rice noodles, pork buns, or steamed dumplings stuffed with scallops. Also open evenings (and weekends)-this is a pleasant place for a group outing. Reviewers caution-it's noisy and has servers that could be more patient-but the food is authentic.
Empress Pavilion-988 N. Hill St. (Bernard St.) (213) 617-9898. $$
Hong Kong-style dim sum. An outrageously large and loud dim sum hall-nearly the size of a football field, with fleets of rolling dim sum carts. It's festive, good, and cheap. Best for lunch. Open daily.
 
Mandarin Shanghai-970 N. Broadway (#114 in Mandarin Plaza) (213) 625-1195. $
Chinese. Serving Chinese cuisine in a casual atmosphere. Hours from 11:30 am ­ 9:30 pm; open daily.
Mayflower-800 Yale St. (Alpine St.) (213) 626-7113. $
Chinese. A good place for rice gruel and casual noodles, etc.
Ocean Seafood-750 N. Hill St. (bet. Alpine & Ord Sts.) (213) 687-3088. $$
Fast-track dim sum and "tank-to-table-seafood". Cantonese restaurant in the dead center of old Chinatown-prices are unbelievably low with "semi-friendly but rushed" service. Open daily.
Pho 79-727 N. Broadway, Suite 120 (213) 625-7026. $
Vietnamese. "The best Vietnamese soup in town." Offers a variety of noodle soups in an unpretentious environment. Most popular menu item: #55 Pho Pac Biet (noodle soup with beef, tendon, and tripe).
Plum Tree Inn-937 N. Hill St. (College St.) (213) 613-1819. $$
Chinese. Recommended: Orange Beef with Broccoli-or try the terrific panfried noodles-or the tangerine chicken. All are very good. The setting is pleasant which makes it a "cut above" many of its competitors. Open daily.
Yang Chow-819 N. Broadway (bet. Alpine & College Sts.) (213) 625-0811. $$
"Always-packed" Chinese. Try the "spectacular slippery shrimp" or the spicy won tons. Also highly recommended: sizzling rice and hot and sour soups; spicy eggplant, broccoli beef, and green beans with ground beef. Reservations are taken but not required. Open daily.

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CLOSE TO SUBWAY STATIONS

Atlas Supper Club-3760 Wilshire Blvd. Wilshire-Western Station (213) 380-8400. $$
Cal-Caribbean. One of LA's few cabarets-it draws a straight and gay crowd to its gorgeous Wilshire Boulevard setting in the Wiltern Building for torch singers. Reviewers complaint-"if only the food could match the room." It's worth the trip to the Wilshire-Western station just to see the marvelous Wiltern Building
Guelaguetza-3337 W. Eighth St. (1 block west of Normandie Ave.) Wilshire-Vermont Station. (213) 427-0601. [Also at: 11127 Palms Blvd. (Sepulveda Blvd., in Lucky Market parking lot), Palms, (310) 837-8600]. $$
Mexican. Offers Oaxacan specialties. Recommended: for breakfast, huevos rancheros; lunch/dinner, chuletas de puerco (chili-marinated and fried pork chops), and more kinds of mole than you dreamed possible. On weekends there are strolling guitarists who take requests. Just a few blocks from the Wilshire-Vermont station. Open daily: 9 am-10 pm.
Langer's-704 S. Alvarado St. (at Seventh) Westlake-MacArthur Park Station (213) 483-8050. $
Deli. Another must-and only a short ride on the subway to the west. All the pastrami sandwiches are great (#44-with sauerkraut and cheese-reportedly voted best). You can call ahead for curbside takeout service and send someone in a cab. Mon-Sat: 8 am-4 pm.
Musso & Frank Grill-6667 Hollywood Blvd. (Highland Ave.) Hollywood-Highland Station (323) 467-7788. $$$
American (Traditional). A Hollywood landmark dating back to 1919, this old-style grill serves basic American food-steaks, chops and liver, and martinis the way they're intended to be. White tablecloths and high wooden booths-a dark and musty atmosphere that's perfect when you need a fix of 50's film noir. Open: Tues-Sat, 11-11; reservations essential.
Paseo Chapin-220 W. Seventh St. Westlake-MacArthur Park Station (213) 385-7420. $
Guatemalan. A charming setting for specialties such as Plate #20-carne guisada, taquitos, and chile rellenos. Other sure bets are the longanizas-sausages served with rice and black beans. Hit #6702 on the jukebox for Sabor a Mi and forget about being a librarian for a while!!
Woo Lae Oak-623 S. Western Ave. Wilshire-Western Station (213) 384-2244. [Also at 170 N. La Cienega Blvd. in Beverly Hills featuring Korean-French blend cuisine]. $$-$$$
Korean. This traditional restaurant in Koreatown features barbecue you grill at your table (Kal Bi-a boneless beef dish is especially nice), but it has a variety of offerings including shrimp and vegetable tempura, noodle soups, and rice dishes. There are lunch specials under $10., but a meal built around grilled entrees will be more expensive. Reservations for dinner.

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EASTSIDE - PASADENA (about 10 miles from downtown)

Burger Continental-535 S. Lake St. (E. California Blvd.) (626) 792-6634. $
American/Middle Eastern. This place has been a Pasadena institution for years! And it's not just the belly dancers that wind their way between the tables out on the shaded patio. There's a huge selection of burgers, also pizzas, salads, sandwiches, pita sandwiches, entrées, and Armenian and Greek specialties. They have good lunch specials, as well as weekend brunch (can be very crowded). Street parking is generally available-more likely in the Vons parking lot around the corner on California Blvd. Open daily from 6:30 am 'til late. On a busy corner-next to a Starbucks and across California (at the corner) are Pete's Coffee, Noah's Bagels, and Wild Oats (natural and organic foods and supplements with salad bar and deli); across California to the east is Pie 'n' Burger-another Pasadena institution. A few blocks further east is the Caltech campus-worth the walk to see the glorious buildings and grounds-and, maybe a couple of Nobel laureates.
Café Bizou-- 91 N. Raymond Ave. (Holly St.) Pasadena, CA, 91103-3919 (626) 792-9923. $$
California-French. Large portions of California-French dishes at prices well under what similar restaurants charge and even though the restaurant has a full liquor license, patrons can bring their own wine for a $2 corkage fee. Perennial favorite dish: lobster in sauce served over handmade pasta, snow peas, tomatos and mushrooms Voted LA's Most Popular restaurant. Reservations essential especially for weekend dinners.
Café Santorini-64 W. Union St. (bet. Fair Oaks Ave. & De Lacey St.) (626) 564-4200. $$
Mediterranean eclectic. In the heart of Old Town-offers a mix of Italian, Lebanese, Armenian and Greek cooking. Has a lovely outdoor patio overlooking the plaza below that's ringed by shops, movies, and other good restaurants. It's a pleasant place for drinks and kebabs. Entry way from a narrow alley-then climb the stairs to the second floor.
Il Fornaio-24 W. Union St. (bet. Fair Oaks Ave. & De Lacey St.) (626) 683-9797. [Also in Beverly Hills, 301 N. Beverly Dr. (310) 550-8330]. $$
Italian, N&S Located on the same plaza as Café Santorini, this hugely popular restaurant has great bread-as its name implies-as well as really good entrees. Try the rotisserie chicken, the tasty and different pizzas, and the light pastas. Vegetarian meals are on the menu-my favorite is the home-made ravioli stuffed with butternut squash!! For breakfast-probably best for coffee and pastries. Open daily.
Marston's-151 E. Walnut St. (just east of Raymond, a few blocks north of Old Town) (626) 796-2459. $
Cal-American. Family-run and decorated-including the beautiful hand-made dried floral arrangements which serve as window décor in this lovely cottage. Favorites: French toast rolled in cornflakes, blueberry pancakes, and seven-grain pancakes (try them with macadamia nuts)! Very popular for Saturday brunch-often a long wait. Join the regulars on the sidewalk with the morning's paper. Open only for breakfast and lunch; Tues-Fri: 7-11 am; 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Sat: 8-11:30 am; 12:30-2:30 pm. An easy stroll from Old Town and about a 10-minute walk from the Norton Simon Museum.
Pita! Pita!-37 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (bet. Colorado Blvd. and Green St.) (626) 356-0106. $
Lebanese/Mediterranean. A small, friendly place for lunch or dinner serving authentic Middle Eastern dishes at reasonable prices. Try any of the house specialties with a cup of their home-made lentil soup as an appetizer. They offer a large selection of vegetarian meals, as well as wonderful fresh-squeezed lemonade. In Old Town-with 90 minutes of free parking across the street .
 
The Raymond-1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (at Columbia St.) (626) 441-3136. $$$
American. A beautiful craftsman house turned into a great restaurant. Delicious food in a tranquil cozy retreat: wonderful patio-fireplace-quiet Celtic harp in the background-excellent service-all make it well worth trying to find this really out-of-the-way treasure. A short drive from the Norton Simon Museum, the Gamble House, the Huntington Library/Museum/Gardens, Caltech, etc.
Saladang-363 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (bet. California Ave. & Del Mar Blvd.) (626) 793-8123; 383 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (bet. California & Del Mar Aves.) (626) 793-5200. $$
Thai. Just a short drive up the historic Pasadena Freeway this restaurant offers a full range of authentic Thai cuisine available al fresco. Especially recommended are the Pad Thai and the Curries. The soft noodles are also wonderful. Its sister site, Song, located next door specializes in Thai street foods. Saladang, in its high-tech warehouse-like space with free on-site parking, is an easy walk (5-6 blocks south) from the hustle-bustle of Old Town.
Yujean Kang's-67 N. Raymond Ave. (bet. Colorado Blvd. & Walnut St.) (626) 585-0855. [Also in W. Hollywood at 8826 Melrose Ave. (310) 288-0806]. $$$
Chinese. This lovely Chinese locale really is a "step above"-serving its own eclectic blending of California and modern Chinese cooking. Try the tasty dim sum, the "awesome lamb", and enjoy the unusually good wine selection. Located in the heart of Old Town-take time after eating to stroll through the area and enjoy the historically-accurate restoration of many of the buildings. A once- blighted area of Pasadena now hoping not to suffer from its own fantastic commercial success.

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MIDTOWN LA ­ ECHO PARK/WESTLAKE/RAMPART

Barragan's-1538 W. Sunset Blvd. (east of Echo Park Ave.) (213) 250-4256. $
Mexican. It's a nice, friendly, casual place. Recommended: machaca, sopes, and huevos rancheros. The Happy Hour is Mon-Fri: 3:30-7:30 pm, with a free buffet on Friday. There's a full bar with great margaritas, including fruity flavors. Street parking or lot across the street. Open daily for lunch and dinner; Sat-Sun, breakfast also.
Taix/Les Freres Taix-1911 Sunset Blvd. (Alvarado St., Echo Park) (213) 484-1265. $$
French bistro. Take a cab-take a crowd. Classic French, not haute French, but more than respectable for the price. This is a great old place, dating back to 1928 and frayed at the edges but so inner LA! Try the delicious onion soup, the "solid" rack of lamb, the beef bourguignon, or the pot au feu. Accompanied by a good wine list, and served by an experienced staff. Lunch and dinner; open daily.
Tommy's Burgers-2575 W. Beverly Blvd. (N. Rampart) (213) 389-9060. [Also in Glendale, West LA, Santa Monica, and other locations]. $
Burger Stand. An LA institution for over 50 years (and traditional USC hangout),
Tommy's specialty is the chiliburger-a hamburger with chili, onions, cheese, and tomatoes. All burgers are made to order using only fresh ingredients. The one closest to downtown is in a rough neighborhood-THE Rampart of LA Police Dept. infamy-so be sure to go in a group. A 24-hour hangout for everyone from frat boys to drug dealers. Eat in your car or take-out.

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KOREATOWN & Vicinity

(10 min. drive west of the Wilshire Grand Hotel)

El Cholo -1121 S. Western Ave. (11th St.) (323) 734-2773. (Also El Cholo in Santa Monica (310) 899-1106, and El Cholo at LAX (310) 417-1910). $$
Mexican. Almost 75 years at this site. Far and away the most famous Mexican restaurant in the city. They are known for their "green corn tamales straight from heaven" and the best and strongest margaritas in LA. The vegetarian enchiladas with a naturally sweet corn sauce are fabulous.
Woo Lae Oak-623 S. Western Ave. (213) 384-2244. $$-$$$
See above section: Close to Subway Stations.

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WESTSIDE

LA BREA-(5-10 min. drive east of LACMA)

Ca'Brea-346 S. La Brea Ave. (4th St.) (323) 938-2863. $$$
Italian with consistently good taste. A favorite of LACMA staff for its reliably good cuisine, wonderful setting and moderate pricing. Occasional stargazing (Hollywood variety) is possible. Lunch and dinner; open Mon-Fri.
Campanile-624 S. La Brea Ave. (bet. 6th St. & Wilshire Blvd.) (323) 938-1447. $$$-$$$$
California/Mediterranean (ranked as the top one in LA). This is a "special-occasion destination" set in a unique building built by Charlie Chaplin-reminiscent of a little Italian village with a bar on one side of the courtyard, a tiny bakery on the other, a casual dining area facing the open kitchen along with a formal rear dining room. The cuisine ranges from very good to dazzling. Recommended: the rustic French- or Italian-influenced dishes, such as brandade with warm cherry tomatoes, scallions and grilled batard, grilled swordfish with beluga lentils, spinach, currants and pine nuts, and prime rib with olive tapenade, flageolet beans and sautéed bitter greens. The desserts are sublime, as are the La Brea Bakery breads. Thursday nights are $12 grilled-cheese sandwich nights; Monday nights they do a popular family-style menu for $30 per person. Brunch, lunch and dinner; open daily.
East India Grill-345 N. La Brea Ave. (Beverly Blvd.) (323) 936-8844. $$.
Creative Cal-Indian tandoori shop. Try the basil-garlic naan, "hot wings" with subcontinental spices. The à la carte menu permits choosing a sauce for your meat or vegetable dish enabling one to create any number of combinations. Lunch and dinner; open daily.
Sonora Café-180 S. La Brea Ave. (bet. Beverly Blvd. & 3rd St.) (323) 857-1800. $$$
Nouvelle Southwestern. Aficionados rave about the high quality of the entire meal-from "breathtaking appetizers through dessert". Don't miss its signature dish, Texas-style BBQ-pork chops without equal. At least one vegetarian plate is always available. Beautiful setting. Lunch and dinner; open daily.
Pink's Famous Chili Dogs-709 N. La Brea Ave. (just N. of Melrose) (323) 931-4223. $
Hot Dog Stand (A 50-year-old landmark). Extremely informal with tables inside and patio at the back. Known for its famous chili dogs and Polish dogs-try the baked fries to go with. Worth the long lines on the sidewalk and the cash-only policy. Always open (virtually). Self-parking on site.

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LITTLE ETHIOPIA

(About 3 blocks south of LACMA on Fairfax Ave.)

Abyssinia Ethiopian Cuisine-1053 S. Fairfax Ave.(323) 933-0930. $
A funky and very ethnic place with many wild and spicy dishes. Many vegetarian entrees. Open daily 12-11.
Merkato-1036 Fairfax Ave. (323) 935-1775. $
This is where the locals come after church. Enjoy lots of nijara bread that comes with hot spicy veggies and meats while you sip St. George beer. There's a gift shop that includes North African crafts and bottled exotic spices. Many vegetarian entrees. Open daily 11-8.
Nyala Ethiopian Cuisine-1076 S. Fairfax Ave. (323) 936-5918. $$
Although a bit pricier than the other restaurants on Fairfax, it's still quite affordable. Served buffet style with many vegetarian possibilities. Wrap up lunch or dinner with a pot of their "mud-in-your-eye" coffee, which comes complete with burning incense. Open: Mon-Fri 11-11; Sat-Sun 12-11.

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BEVERLY BLVD./THIRD STREET

(between Fairfax & Robertson)

Hirozen-8385 Beverly Blvd. (Orlando Ave.) (323) 653-0470. $$
Japanese. It's well hidden in a La Cienega mini-mall, but those who can find this elegant storefront are rewarded with affordable, unusually interesting sushi and "village cooking." The unwritten dress code is "wear black or don't come back" at this cramped and noisy den that feels just like Tokyo.
Ita Cho-7311 Beverly Blvd. (La Brea Ave.) (323) 938-9009. $-$$
Japanese. Another gem hidden away in a mini-mall. It has relocated to the Hasidic section, where those in the know flock for ippinryori, or "little plates" of sumptuous grilled fish and vegetables as well as high-quality sashimi. The cooked dishes are far better than the sushi. Make a reservation!-it's very popular and very small.
Mimosa-8009 Beverly Blvd. (Crescent Heights Blvd.) (323) 655-8895. $$
French bistro. This is arguably the best authentic French bistro in town. The walls are a Van Gogh yellow, and they're hung with mirrors and old photos-right out of Provence. Jars of cornichons and spicy olives are brought to the table along with the bread. Favorites: veal daube, steak frites, fresh sole and bouillabaisse, along with good pastas. Particularly good: the delicate tomato tarte tatin appetizer, and the chocolate pot de crème for dessert. It's chic and "in" so call before arriving.
 
Sofi-8030 W. Third St. (bet. Crescent Hts. & Fairfax Ave.) (323) 651-0346. $$
Greek. You can eat under the stars at this charming Greek-it's a hidden gem with a magical garden that's especially gorgeous at night. Start with an array of the delicious appetizers, paired with "that wine with the pine resin flavor", brought by servers who are "caring", even if they seem to be "on Greek time." Open daily.
Sushi Roku-8445 W. Third St. (La Cienega Blvd.) (323) 655-6767. [Also at 1401 Ocean Ave. (Santa Monica Blvd., in Santa Monica) (310) 458-4771]. $$$
Japanese. A favorite with the Gen-X movie-industry set. In sleekly modern surroundings, enjoy such delicate and exotic
appetizers as tuna tataki salad, monkfish paté and rock shrimp popcorn tempura, followed by every manner of sushi including a roll filled with shrimp and deep-fried jalapeno peppers, and the sea bass with shredded deep-fried yams. Try it with sake or their potent specialty drink the "Tokyo Rose", a blend of sake, plum wine, triple sec and a splash of cranberry juice. Open daily; open late-12:30 am.
 
Zen Grill-8432 W. Third St. (bet. La Cienega Blvd. & Orlando Ave.) (323) 655-9991. [Also at 9111 W. Olympic Blvd. (Doheny Dr., in Beverly Hills) (310) 278-7773]. $$
Pan-Asian. You'll find an interesting mix of Asian cuisines at this "tandem of fun, hip, fusion treasures" that entices the palate with creative new flavors and tastes. The sautéed bananas for dessert are out-of-this-world. It's a simple, comfortable place and has totally affordable prices-so it fills up fast. There can be a long line waiting. Open daily; open late-12:30 am.

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WEST LA

Il Moro-11400 W. Olympic Blvd. (entrance on Purdue Ave., bet. Barrington Ave. & Sepulveda Blvd.) (310) 575-3530. $$
Italian. This "always excellent" Westside trattoria in an office building has an open kitchen in the center and a pleasant patio in back. The chef's (Antonio Tomassi) cooking has a creative edge-try the "melt in your mouth ravioli or the astounding artichoke salad." Generally crowded at lunch.
John O'Groats-10516 W. Pico Blvd. (west of Motor) (310) 204-0692. $
American/Eclectic. Second generation-family owned and frequented by regulars who are treated like family. Known for their breakfasts! Recommended: pancakes, or the Huevos O'Groats (oatmeal tortillas made from biscuit dough topped with eggs and black beans). But lunch and dinner are great too-ask for the hot biscuits even before you order-along with the fresh-squeezed lemonade or carrot, apple, etc. juices. Great salads with homemade tortillas (some vegetarian), and the fish and chips in huge portions are a favorite. A few blocks west of the 20th Century Fox movie lot. Open Mon-Fri: 7 am-3 pm; Sat/Sun: 7 am-2 pm; Wed-Sat: 6-9 pm.
Monte Alban-11927 Santa Monica Blvd. (Brockton Ave.) (310) 444-7736. $
Mexican. A modest Oaxacan place-"not much to look at"-but the mole negro is divine: a smooth, intense black sauce made with over thirty herbs, spices, chili seeds, and served over a mass of tender, white meat chicken. You can also try red, yellow, and green mole, though once you've sampled the black version, it's hard to choose anything else. At breakfast, there are hearty and well-seasoned dishes, such as higaditos, shredded chicken with eggs and tomatoes. And there's really great chicken stuffed chile rellenos. Just west of the 405 Frwy-a short drive from the UCLA campus.
Nanban-Kan-11330 Santa Monica Blvd. (323) 879-0454. $
Japanese. This restaurant, like Ita-cho, features "little dishes" ­sort of a Japanese Dim Sum-but for dinner. This style of cooking is known as "village" or "country" cooking. It's just west of the 405 freeway on the south side of Santa Monica Boulevard. And it's a hole-in-the-wall-so it's very easy to miss.
Palomino-10877 Wilshire Blvd. (bet. Glendon & Lindbrook Aves.) (310) 208-1960. $$$
Mediterranean (with good Bar). Actually there are many who feel this is a BAR first with the Med. food an afterthought. The bar is fabulous. Located in Westwood Village (next to the UCLA campus)-this spot tends to draw an older, more sophisticated crowd than the college set. Try the Palomino Martini or opt for one of their signature Peach Palini. They stock a number of draft beers and the wine list is extensive. Feels like a private club-and has windows for people watching. Additionally offers fine dining at a reasonable price, especially for lunch. The seared albacore served with a delicate orzi sauce is recommended. The staff and service are extra friendly. Open daily; serves brunch.
Versailles-10319 Venice Blvd. (Motor Ave.) (310) 558-3168. [Also at 1415 S. La Cienega (Pico Blvd.) (310) 289-0392]. $
Cuban. Low prices, crowded, nondescript décor-still be prepared to wait for a table. It's the garlic-drenched chicken or the Cuban style pork served with sweet raw onions and fried plantains on white rice. It's kid friendly, has outdoor dining, and parking. Expect long lines on Fri/Sat nights. Lunch & dinner; open daily.

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SANTA MONICA (About 15 miles from downtown)

WILSHIRE AND NORTH
17th Street Café-1610 Montana Ave. (17th St.) (310) 453-2771. $$
Californian. They'll make whatever you want at this old faithful-a neighborhood favorite for terrific Californian food in an inviting space. The menu is not fancy, but there's something to please every palate-a wide variety of great salads, sandwiches, sweet potato fries and more-plus it's friendly. Open daily; reservations essential.

Drago's-2628 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 828-1585. $$$

Italian. An excellent and elegant (but not stuffy) locale that offers consistently good and imaginative eclectic Italian cuisine.
Izzy's Deli-1433 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 394-1131. $
Deli. Go for lunch and have the Turkey Gumbo soup!! It's very hearty soup-a meal in itself, and it should be accompanied with some of their fresh rye bread. The reasonable prices can't be beat.

Royal Star Seafood-3001 Wilshire Blvd. (Stanford Ave.) (310) 828-8812. $$

Chinese. Offers dim sum from rolling carts at lunch. It's always crowded with regulars back for more of the terrific "authentic" little plates. Many of them return at night for the Hong Kong-style seafood specialties. Be on guard for some "surly" servers. Open daily.

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THIRD STREET PROMENADE AND ADJACENT

Border Grill-1445 Fourth St. (bet. Broadway & Santa Monica Blvd.) (310) 451-1655. $$
Mexican/Tex-Mex. The flagship spot of Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger is raucous (many say too noisy), funky and intensely colorful. It's one of the country's top Latin restaurants. Recommended: the griddled pork chop with a tamarind-apple sauce or the roasted garlic-stuffed grilled prime rib chop. Or try (and save money) a selection of green corn tamales, black-bean-stuffed panuchos and griddled tacos filled with everything from potato and rajas (it's exquisite!), to roasted lamb. Try the flourless chocolate cake! One reviewer exclaimed, "It was so moist and bursting with flavor surrounded by candied nuts that I was in heaven!" Mon: open for dinner only; Tues-Sun: 11:30 am -10:00 pm. Reservations essential.
Broadway Deli-1457 Third St. Promenade (Broadway) (310) 451-0616. $$
Deli/Sandwich Shop. Not really a deli so much as a Californian with deli dishes; this always-crowded bit of NYC in LA "has a Seinfeld feel but on a larger scale." Expect to find everything you could want to eat here-as well as a late-night snack menu that lures in moviegoers from the local megaplex. Open daily and very late-after 12:30 am.
Gate of India-115 Santa Monica Blvd. (bet. Ocean Ave. & 2nd St.) (310) 656-1664. $$
Indian. Home to rich and tasty fare that includes lots of unusual dishes and a decent lunch buffet; the service is slow and the exotic décor a bit on the tacky side, but the truly delicious tastes more than compensate. Open daily.
Locanda del Lago-231 Arizona Avenue (NW corner 3rd & Arizona) (310) 451-3525. $$
Northern Italian. Indoors or outdoor patio. Includes "hard-to-find specialties" and is particularly nice for lunch outdoors on a sunny day.
Wolfgang Puck Express--1315 Third Street Promenade, Second Level (310) 576-4773. $
California Cuisine. This is fast food-but not like any you've had before! Some people say Wolfgang Puck invented "California Cuisine". He did invent barbecue chicken pizza which made the original Spago in Hollywood world famous. This Express version has the same features-absolutely fresh food with all dishes made on the spot in front of you-wood-burning pizza oven-but without any waiters. You get to it via an escalator; it's cafeteria-style and seat-yourself-and (if there's room) you can sit overlooking the most entertaining part of the Promenade (there's always live music on the street) from its 2nd floor level terrace. Recommended: (besides the barbecue chicken pizza) are the butternut squash soup, Asian Noodle Salad or Caesar, and the wild mushroom tortellini. There's more-including focaccia-bread sandwiches and rotisserie chicken. The chicken is a meal that includes garlic-mashed potatoes and a salad. Portions are large, so half is really plenty for most appetites. The décor is a postmodern tile extravaganza-you have to see it-it's indescribable!

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NEAR WEST L.A./SANTA MONICA AIRPORT

Il Forno Caffe and Pizzeria-- 2901 Ocean Park Blvd. (bet. 29th & 30th Sts.) Santa Monica, CA, 90405-2919 (310) 450-1241. $-$$$
California-Italian. A little treasure which draws loyal and enthusiastic crowds with its Northern Italian dishes, including properly cooked, freshly-made pastas, New York-style pizzas, and lovely veal dishes. A friendly, accommodating staff and pleasant indoor/outdoor dining areas, more than make up for its strip mall location.
 
Sabor-3221 Pico Blvd. (310) 829-3781. $$
Latin American. Wonderfully delicious dishes are served in this charming restaurant decorated in a cheerful Caribbean style. Tamales, chili rellenos, and jambalaya are a few of the house specialties. Lunch served Mon-Fri: 11:30-2; dinner from 5 p.m.
 
Typhoon-3221 Donald Douglas Loop South. (310) 390-6565. $$
Pan-Asian. Dishes range from Filipino fried squid to scallops with black beans to Korean barbecue beef. Its location at the Santa Monica airport is an added attraction (really!).

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OCEAN PARK/MAIN STREET

Chinois on Main-2709 Main St. (bet. Ocean Park Blvd. & Rose Ave.) (310) 392-9025. $$$-$$$$
Asian-inspired New French. A very special place-it's the highest-rated of Wolfgang Puck's many restaurants and is among LA's best overall. Famous for its sizzling whole catfish with ginger, lobster ravioli, and its divine spinach. As divine as the food is here, you should be forewarned that if talking (and hearing) is as important to you as eating, you may want to think twice; it's very noisy and always very crowded, especially at dinner. Open daily-reservations essential.
Jake and Annie's-2700 Main Street (310) 452-1734. $$
Irish-American. Jake and Annie's and Lula's (see below) are both owned by Gerri Gilliland, who held culinary sway over Main Street way before the current chic crop arrived. It calls itself "an American café with a touch of the blarney"-and it serves a wonderful Irish stew, but the menu is actually a kind of "Americana" sampler. "Everything on this menu is wonderful", and one of the best things is the cranberry walnut goat cheese salad-which you can share-it's big. Then there are the Santa Maria barbecue ribs and the garlic mashed potatoes-for which they are famous. There's a wonderful turkey meat loaf and a sweet potato ravioli; also available are classics such as fried chicken and to-die-for crab cakes. And there are always fish specials. It's in a turn-of-the-century brick building, but inside it's has a very cool, almost "New York" look, featuring a large elegant bar, kinetic neon wall sculptures, and French posters from the twenties. Open: 11 am-11 pm. Lunch served: 11:30-3:30. Brunch served on Saturday & Sunday.
Lula Cocina Mexicana-2720 Main Street (310) 392-5711. $$
"Cocina Mexicana." This place is guaranteed to delight, whether or not you are already a fan of Mexican food. The décor is a combination of Mexican folk and contemporary Chicano art, including great paintings by Frank Romero, Carlos Almaraz, and others that are for sale. A tip-off that you're in for something different is the appetizer on the table when you sit down: cold cooked carrots al dente in a peppery marinade. Appetizers include a plato de botana (stuffed zucchini blossoms, stuffed jalapeno, duck sopes, corn potato molote, cheese corn quesadilla), or any of the plato items separately. Two Oaxacan chicken dishes with different dark mole sauces are offered, along with hand-made tamales made without lard. All your familiar Mexican dishes are here also, but not at all tipico. Open: Sun-Thurs 11:30 am-10 pm; Fri & Sat: 11:30 am-11 pm. Lunch served 11:30-3:30.

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BY THE SEA, BY THE BEAUTIFUL SEA

This section includes restaurants that are on or (in most cases) within spitting distance of the beach. All have views, some spectacular. Except where noted, although the food will be good, it is the view that is the main draw, so don't forget to get there well before dark. Note: Before April 1, sunset is at 6:15 pm; after April 1 it's at 7:15 pm. Most places are California casual but some, especially those in the hotels, are California casual-dressy; prices range from $ to $$$$. They are listed in alphabetical order, but they range along 60-70 miles of coastline from the Paradise Cove Beach Cafe just south of Point Dume in north Malibu all the way to the Yard House in Long Beach, so check a map and when you call for reservations (in many cases essential), ask for directions and an estimate of drive time before you start out. One more aviso: during the week, evening rush hour heading north on the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH--Hwy #1) can be a bear. For restaurants south of Santa Monica, you don't want to take the PCH.

Back on the Beach-445 Pacific Coast Hwy (Santa Monica--north of S.M. Pier). (310) 393-8282. $
California. This very casual place is literally on the beach, just off the boardwalk about mile north of the S.M. Pier. It has its own parking lot off of PCH or you could park on or near the Pier and then walk (or skate or bicycle) there on the boardwalk. Outdoor seating area is in the sand; tables indoors if it's a windy day. Open for breakfast or brunch as well as lunch and dinner. Omelets, pasta, sandwiches, chicken-potato salad. Somewhat more ambitious menu for dinner.
Café del Rey-4451 Admiralty Way (Marina del Rey--west of Lincoln, south of Washington Blvd.) (310) 823-6395. $$$
Pacific New Wave. The spectacular view here is of the Marina (boats), not the ocean. But this restaurant is deservedly famous for its food and its stylish décor as well. Chef Katsuo "Naga" Nagasawa was one of L.A.'s first practitioners of "architectural" food that actually had the flavor to match its on-plate presentations. The wine list is as interesting as the food. Weekend brunch on the outdoor deck is a treat. Reservations recommended; essential on weekends.
Cezanne-1740 Ocean Ave. (Santa Monica--between Colorado and Pico) (310) 395-9700. $$$$
French. An elegant formal restaurant in the new Le Merigot hotel serves Classic French haute cuisine. Reviewers say the staff is attentive.
Geoffrey's-27400 Pacific Coast Hwy (Malibu--4 mi. north of Malibu Canyon Rd.) (310) 457-1519. $$$
California. Its location on a hilltop with its "oh-my-God" view of the curving Southern California coastline and its flower-filled patio make this a "reservations essential" restaurant. While the food is outstanding, don't bother if you can't get in until dark. It's about 15 miles north of Santa Monica, so go when you can relax and enjoy the ocean drive. Great for lunch or Sunday brunch.
Gladstone's 4 Fish-17300 Pacific Coast Hwy (Pacific Palisades-at foot of Sunset Blvd.) (310) 573-0212. $$
Seafood. This is a tourist mecca, but it's fun for the locals once in a while too. It's right on the beach-relatively close-in-and one of the few beach places worth going to after dark as they shine spotlights on the surf at night. (But daytime is best.) Portions are large; décor is 70's hippie pole and beam. If its too crowded in the restaurant, order a large drink (or two if you're not driving) to sip on the wind-protected patio.
Lavande-1700 Ocean Ave. (Santa Monica--between Colorado and Pico) (310) 576-3181. $$$
Mediterranean. The view from this restaurant in the Lowes Santa Monica Hotel is one of the most impressive along the coast. The cuisine is rooted in the textures and flavors of the Mediterranean. The founding chef, Alain Giraud, set a level that is hard to follow, but the present chef, Jeffrey Nimer, is holding his own. Reservations essential.
The Lobster-1602 Ocean Ave. (Santa Monica-west end of Colorado) (310) 458-9294. $$$
Seafood. This restaurant may well have the best view of any if you like a "city-by-the-water" seascape. It is right by the entrance to the Santa Monica Pier in an almost-brand-new postmodern building that is mostly glass with an 180-degree panoramic view of the pier (with the ferris wheel performing its spectacular light show after dark) and the ocean to the south. Best if you can get there just before twilight and enjoy the lights of the pier as darkness falls. The cooking of Allyson Thurber (formerly Exec. Chef at the Water Grill) makes this a serious food destination as well as fun. Reservations essential.
Maria Sol-Santa Monica Pier (at the end of the Pier) (310) 917-5050. $
Mexican. The reason to go to this restaurant is because it is at the end of the Santa Monica Pier. (The food is fine; it's just not exceptional-but the location is.) Park on or near the Pier. Get there at least an hour before sunset and stroll, slowly, down the Pier. If you're lucky, the bubble man will be there. Check out the Fun Zone (especially the old carousel and the new ferris wheel), people fishing, etc., etc. Even if you don't eat a meal, sit down outside and order an enormous marguerita and watch the sunset. Check out the observation and fishing deck at the very end. Then as darkness comes, stroll back, digging the neon light show put on by the ferris wheel. Take a ride-this is a great thing to do if you can time it to happen at sunset. You will see families and lovers from every part of the globe-and many of them live here! It's a quintessential California experience of which some of us never tire.
One Pico-1 Pico Blvd. (Santa Monica-Ocean at Pico) (310) 587-1717. $$$
California/Mediterranean. In a beautifully renovated luxury hotel (Shutters-on-the-Beach) south of the Santa Monica Pier, this restaurant "brings a little of Cape Cod and a lot of Ralph Lauren to the beach in Santa Monica-and offers a stunning ocean view." The New American cuisine is simple, yet well-prepared. Recommended: corn chowder with smoked shrimp, steamed mussels with a lemon sauce, applewood-smoked salmon and herb-crusted rack of lamb. Reservations recommended. See also Pedals Café, below.
Paradise Cove Beach Café-28128 Pacific Coast Hwy (Malibu--Pacific Cove Rd.) (310) 457-2503. $$
California. Formerly the Sand Castle, according to the Zagat Guide, the owner, Bob Morris, "raised the salad bar to haute cuisine (and redefined the notion of 'monster portions' along the way." The Gayot Guide recommends breakfast (which is served until 2 pm), then a stroll along the "lovely private beach." This destination is a trek, almost 15 miles north of Santa Monica, so make a reservation, and go at a time when you can enjoy the drive north along PCH.
Pedals Café-1 Pico Blvd. (Santa Monica-Ocean at Pico) (310) 458-4589. $$
California. In a lovely hotel (Shutters-on-the-Beach--see One Pico, above), Pedals Café is right on the boardwalk just south of the S.M. Pier. Although its open for dinner (and could be $$$ rather than $$ for dinner), we're recommending it for breakfast or lunch-or weekend brunch-though you must be prepared to wait on the weekend. The lemon-ricotta pancakes are great.
Perry's-several dotted along the boardwalk in Santa Monica. $
These are "beach shacks" and are recommended here only because the food is OK (and cheap) and they are right next to the boardwalk between Ocean Park and the Santa Monica Pier. Great for just sittin' in the sun, people-watching, collapsing after walking, skating, or biking on the boardwalk, or strolling on the beach.
Sidewalk Café-1401 Ocean Front Walk (Venice-just north of Washington Blvd.) (310) 399-5547. $
American. The best seat in the house for the "Venice Scene" right on the boardwalk. All seating is outside on a terrace in front of an old sports bar and bookstore (!) The decor is classic Venice funk and includes some of the original Palladian pillars. Try to get a seat next to the boardwalk for the best view of performers, strollers, and dogs. On the weekend there will be a line, but it usually moves fast and there's lots to look at while you wait. Pretty good breakfast, lunch, and dinner-though there are much better places for dinner. Sandwiches, omelets, salads, etc., are named after writers and artists. A lot of serious artists and writers still live in this area. Lots of murals on nearby walls. Whole beach/pier area has recently been renovated. The Venice Pier can be strolled on. It's for fishing only; no concessions. Take the time to walk a bit on the bike path (but be careful of speeding bikers and skaters) or shop a bit for tie-dye, tattoos, and cheap jewelry along the boardwalk. If you're lucky you'll see performers juggling truly amazing objects-even small people!
Yard House-401 Shoreline Village Dr. (Pine Ave.) (562) 628-0455. $$
Feeling adventuresome? Catch the Metro Blue Line from the Seventh and Flower station for a leisurely trip to the waterfront in Long Beach. This brewpub is located a short stroll from the new Aquarium of the Pacific. It features an almost unlimited array of beers on tap, great onion rings, and crab cakes to rival McCormick and Schmick's. Considered "too busy" by some-expect a "great atmosphere" and basic bar food.

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IN CATEGORIES ALL THEIR OWN

Aunt Kizzy's Back Porch-- 4325 Glencoe Ave. (Mindanao Way) Marina del Rey (310) 578-1005 $-$$
Southern/Soul food. The all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch is one of the best values in LA. Truly fun and fabulous food in a friendly and comfortable setting.
Erewhon-7660 Beverly Blvd. (just east of Fairfax Ave.) (213) 937-0777.
"The 'Super-Natural' Food Market"-they carry a full line of organic fresh produce, groceries, macrobiotic foods, bulk grains & nuts, nutrition and supplements, etc. They have wonderful homemade soups, a salad bar, a juice bar, and a deli with lots of healthy stuff to eat in or take out. Close to LACMA (a 5-min. drive). Open daily: 8 am-9 pm.
Four Oaks Restaurant--218 N. Beverly Glen Boulevard (bet. Mulholland Dr. & Sunset Blvd.) Bel-Air (310) 470 ­ 2265 $$-$$$$
California/French Elegant, romantic country home setting with a decidedly louche past, set amid sycamores and lush gardens, and hidden away in tranquil Beverly Glen Canyon. Offering fine cuisine and intimate dining, it's a favorite for romantic diners who make Valentine's Day reservations a full year ahead ­ in order to ensure an intimate table by the roaring fireplace or a quiet corner table near the fountain on the flower-covered garden patio.
Sweet Lady Jane--8360 Melrose Ave. (2 blks east of La Cienega Blvd.) West Hollywood (323) 653-7145 $-$$
Bakery and then some! A tiny, pretty shop with perfect, lovely lunches and indescribable desserts. Excellent for people-watching, especially engaged couples choosing the wedding cakes!
Inn of the Seventh Ray--128 Old Topanga Canyon Rd. (4 mi. north of PCH) Topanga Canyon (310) 455-1311
Vegetarian/Health food, NewAge version. $$. Zagat's says it all: "Cleanse your soul while you fill your stomach" at this "remote", "blissful" "Topanga delight" infused "with many shades of '70s mysticism"; its "healthy but fancy" fare's "good", but it can't help being "outshined" by the truly "idyllic", "creekside" setting in the Malibu mountains.
Milky Way--9108 W. Pico Blvd. (at Doheny Dr.) LA (310) 859-0004 $$
Kosher Dairy. As Zagat's says: chef-owner Leah Adler (Steven Spielberg's mom) is a "world unto herself", a "floor show" who "always makes you feel at home" at her Eclectic kosher dairy restaurant in Beverlywood/Pico-Robertson; along with her "home cooking at reasonable prices", and "you get to hear stories about Steven's childhood."
Newsroom Café--120 N. Robertson Blvd. (bet. Beverly Blvd. & 3rd St.) LA, (310) 652-4444; 530 Wilshire Blvd. (6th St.) Santa Monica (310) 319-9100 $-$$
Trendy California- healthy. The one on Robertson is across from The Ivy for those who like to watch the rich and famous. Vegetarian selections.
Pat's--9233 W. Pico Blvd. (bet. Beverly & Doheny Drs.) Beverlywood/Pico-Robertson area of LA (310) 205-8705 $$-$$$
Glatt Kosher non-dairy. Creative menu, lovely setting.
Wolfgang Puck Café-- 8000 Sunset Blvd. (Crescent Hts. Blvd.) Hollywood (323) 650-7300; 1000 Universal Ctr. Dr. (Lankershim Blvd. & #101 Frwy.) Universal City (818) 985-9653; 1323 Montana Ave. (14th St.) Santa Monica (310) 393-0290 $-$$
Californian. Have the "Oscar Night" smoked salmon pizza or the barbecued duck quesidilla

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FAST, GOOD, AND EVERYWHERE

Baja Fresh Mexican Grill-The closest locations in the LA area are: Beverly Hills, 3rd and La Cienega, Miracle Mile (1 block east of LACMA on Wilshire), Pasadena, Santa Monica, West Hollywood, West LA, and Westwood Village.
As fast food goes, these places are really very good. Part of their logo proclaims, "No microwaves, no can openers, no freezers, no lard, no M.S.G". Recommended-the fish tacos!-Zagat claims they're "to die for"-so do I!! The tostada salad is fresh and good-and the burritos big. Eat in or take out. Most locations are quite new so they're very clean.
Jamba Juice-(800 545-9972) 10+ outlets in LA plus many more in all the surrounding areas and beach cities. Best to call or logon to the website for locations.
They serve fast, healthy, portable meals-from blended-to-order Smoothies and fresh-squeezed juices to hot vegetable soups and nutritious breads. No added sugars, preservatives or artificial flavors. These are really "in" places in California and worth seeking out for a mid-day pick-me-up, a quick meal, or a treat following a workout-mental or physical.
In-N-Out Burger -These burger stands dot the California landscape. The 4 closest to the conference hotel are in Hollywood, West LA, Culver City and Studio City.
An LA tradition since 1948, In-N-Out Burger was the first burger stand to utilize a two-way speaker system for ordering-and thus became California's first drive-thru. Even if you don't like burger stands, this is a California must-do experience. Open from 10:30 am to 1:00 am.

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